By PETER COOPER, The Tennessean

This year's ''Zero to 60'' award must go to country singer Buddy Jewell.

Twelve months ago, Jewell was a frustrated demo singer who wouldn't have received a second glance from Fan Fair attendees. Now, having won the USA Network's Nashville Star competition, his presence draws shouts of recognition and pleas for autographs.

From what he showed during his Fan Fair performance at The Coliseum last night, it seems the increased attention is wholly justified. A 15-minute set is an inadequate indicator of lasting talent, but there's no mistaking the quality of Jewell's well-worn, back porch-ready, deeply Southern voice.

Jewell is a stand-and-sing stage presence, out of the George Strait or Randy Travis school, and his look is about as new-school hip as a rerun of the Andy Griffith Show. In a country music world that is ruled by the young, preened, flat-belly crew, Jewell manages to stand out by looking like a real and regular person.

The appeal isn't just an ''I am everyman'' kind of thing, though: Most folks don't sing as well as Buddy Jewell does, and the voice and the songs are the real selling points.

Abilene On Her Mind and Sweet Southern Comfort were instantly memorable, although fellow Nashville Star contestant Jamey Garner's harp was a trifle busy on the latter number.

The loudest cheers were reserved for Jewell's finale — new single Help Pour Out The Rain (Lacey's Song) — but Jewell seemed most vibrant on an up-tempo number called I Want To Thank Everyone Who Ever Told Me No. After 10 years of having Nashville doors slammed in his face, it's obvious Jewell is relishing the instant celebrity that was so long in coming.

In other Buddy news...
BUDDY JEWELL had quite the line at his Fan Fair booth. His album isn't even out, yet, and already, fans were lining up to buy Buddy Jewell license plate frames, pictures, T-shirts, bandanas and other merchandise. Buddy's fan club comes with two levels of membership. The ordinary 10-dollar and the deluxe 50-dollar membership. The deluxe membership gets you the two CDs he made before he won the Nashville Star competition.